Overview

Tracing the coastline directly east of Bangkok, there are a few resort spots that are attractive as much for their proximity to Bangkok as anything. Closest is Pattaya, one of Thailand’s earliest holiday developments and famous (or infamous) for its wild nightlife, its sea of amber-lit, open-air beer bars, go-go spots, and hostess clubs. The town is always hoppin’ late into the night and guys come from all over the world to live it up. But there’s a dark side: Despite efforts at prevention and encouraged use of condoms, AIDS and STDs are major problems among brothel workers, and the skin trade in Pattaya lures some pretty nasty elements such as child prostitution and drug activity. As such, much of Pattaya is too seedy for family vacations, but there are some fine resorts, plenty of shopping,  and good golf courses. The main Pattaya beach is still overcoming the effects of years of pell-mell construction  and the spilling of pollutants directly into the bay (there’s now a sewage treatment plant). The beach is also just a thin strip of coarse sand with too many motorboats buzzing.

Brief History

The current incarnation of Pattaya claims its founders day as June 29, 1959, when a few truckloads of American troops stationed in nearby Isan arrived, rented houses along the beach, and had such a hoot that they told their friends. Word spread and, over time, the town became the R&R capital for war-weary American troops for the next many years. The legacy of those early visitors is today’s adult playground: with hundreds of go-go clubs, beer bars, and massage parlors at beachside. Tourism boomed in the 1980s, and unchecked resort development was not accompanied by infrastructure upgrades such that beaches became veritable toilets of raw sewage. Recent years have seen a few civil projects to clean up the bay with some success, but the beach is not at all pleasant. Despite this, Pattaya now supports a collection of large, sophisticated international resorts, retreats set in sprawling, manicured seaside gardens. Pattaya would like to be a family destination, and, along with fine accommodations, there are some family activities, but Pattaya’s mammoth sex tourism industry kind of puts the kibosh on any wholesome family fun (parents may not be able to field all of the questions the town raises in the little ones). Neighboring Jomtien is a popular alternative to Pattaya. Less seedy activities and cleaner beaches (though just a long, thin stretch of coarse sand), Jomtien’s best accommodations are private condominiums, but it’s good for day visits

Getting To Pattaya

By Plane There’s no airport in Pattaya, the nearest being in U Tapao, an hour east of the city. Served by Bangkok Airways with a daily flight from Koh Samui (trip time: 1 hr.). They also fly four times a week to and from Phnom Penh in Cambodia.

By Train Once-a-day train service leaves from Bangkok’s Hua Lampong station at 6:55am and returns from Pattaya at 2:50pm. The 5-hour trip through the countryside is pleasant and costs only 31B (75¢).

By Public Bus The most common and practical form of transportation to Pattaya is the bus. Buses depart from Bangkok’s Eastern Bus Terminal on Sukhumvit Road (opposite Soi 63 at the BTS Ekamai Station) every half-hour beginning from 5am until 10pm every day. For air-conditioner coach the fare is 90B ($2.20). There’s also regular bus service from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal, on Kampaengphet 2 Road (Mor Chit)  which is a good way to avoid Bangkok rush-hour traffic. The bus station in Pattaya for air-conditioned buses to and from Bangkok is on North Pattaya Road (tel 03842-9877). From there, catch a shared ride on a songtao to your resort or hotel for about 20B (50¢).

By Private Bus Major hotels or travel agencies in both Bangkok and Pattaya operate private shuttles so be sure to inquire when booking

By Taxi Taxis from the Don Muang Airport taxi counter go for 1,250B ($30) and any hotel concierge can negotiate with a metered taxi driver to take you to or from Pattaya resort, door to door, for about 1,500B ($36).

By Car Take Highway 3 east from Bangkok.

Orientation

Pattaya Beach road is the heart of the town, a long strip of hotels, bars, restaurants, and shops overlooking Pattaya Bay. Pattaya 2nd and Pattaya 3rd roads run parallel to Beach Road and form a busy central grid of small, crowded sois bound by North Pattaya Road and South Pattaya road and bisected by Central Pattaya Road. At both the far northern (Dusit Resort) and southern (Royal Cliff Beach Resort) ends of the strip are two bluffs. Due south is condo-lined Jomtien Beach, a 15-minute ride from Pattaya.

Getting Around

By Minius or Songtao Songtao (called baht buses here) are covered pickup trucks with wooden benches that follow regular routes up and down the main streets. Fares within Pattaya start at 10B (25¢). To far-flung beaches such as Jomtien, they’re 30B (75¢). Drivers will try to charge you a taxi-rate (especially if empty) but don’t have any of it (bargain hard and wait for a full truck). Some hotels operate their own minibuses.

By Car There are plenty of car-rental agencies, and you can negotiate the price with most, especially outside the high season. Avis is at the Dusit Resort (Tel 03836-1628) with self-drive rates from about 1,500B ($34) per day for a Suzuki Caribian 4WD sport vehicle to 2,000B ($45) and up for a compact sedan. Budget Car Rental has an office at Liabchayhard Beach Rd. (Tel 03871-0717) and offers comparable rates. VIA Rent-a-Car, 215/15–18 Pattaya 2nd Rd. opposite Royal Garden Plaza (Tel 03872-3123), has a good reputation and, like the many along Pattaya Beach Road, offers better rates (from 900B/$22) but be sure to read all contracts and check vehicles closely before renting.

By Motorcycle Let’s be honest, Pattaya’s busy roads are full of drunk and reckless foreign drivers on motorbikes, but the brave (or foolish) can rent 150cc motorcycles for 200B ($4.90) a day (no insurance). Big choppers and Japanese speed bikes (500cc) will go for from 500B to 900B ($12–$22) per day. Demand a helmet and as always “renter beware.”

What to see & Do

Wat Khao Prayai is a small temple complex high above town to the south (go by songtao toward Jomtien then hop-off and climb the steep hill). The temple has excellent vistas and a 10m (321⁄2-ft.) gold Buddha serenely surveying the western sea.

For those who don’t have time to see all of Thailand’s many wonders, Mini Siam (387 Moo 6 Sukhumvit Rd., North Pattaya City; Tel 03842-1628) offers a comprehensive tour of the kingdoms highlights in miniature (an example of scale: Bangkok’s huge Grand Palace is waist high). Open daily 7am to 8pm; admission 200B ($4.90) adults, 100B ($2.50) children. It’s 14km (81⁄2 miles) north of Pattaya City and best reached by taxi or private car.

For something completely unusual, the Ripley’s Believe It or Not showcase, 3rd Floor, Royal Garden Plaza, 218 Beach Rd. (Tel 03871-0294), open 10am to midnight daily (admission 320B/$7.80), is hilarious, with unusual exhibits and odd facts from around the globe. Just next-door is the Ripley’s Motion Master simulator ride. Both are highly recommended for kids of all ages.

The Pattaya Elephant Village (see the Elephant Desk at Tropicana Hotel, Beach Rd.; Tel 03842-8158), stages elephant shows daily at 2:30pm. You can also arrange for a little jungle trekking on elephant back; a half hour trek is about 500B ($12) per adult and 200B ($4.55) per child. If that’s not quite your speed, check out Pattaya Go-Kart, Sukhumvit Road next to Mini Siam (Tel 03842-2044), with a 400m (1,312 ft.) track that is also suitable for children. Rates run between 100B ($2.30) and 200B ($4.55) per 10 minutes, depending on the power of your cart.

Also some 18km (111⁄2 miles) from Pattaya is Nong Nooch (Tel 03842-2958) a giant botanical garden and elephant park with daily performances—with elephants performing alongside some 100 dancers, musicians, and performers for spectator crowds of up to 1,000. Cultural performances, music, Thai boxing, audience participation, and dozens of funny photo ops make this really touristy activity a load of laughs. Make your booking directly (Tel 03842-2958), and they can arrange shuttles from Pattaya at either 8:30am or 1:15pm with return.

Where to stay

Busy central Pattaya features a range of accommodation, from seedy to stylish, and the town supports a few more isolated, peaceful getaways. During the high season, reservations are recommended at least 2 weeks in advance, especially December–January.

EXPENSIVE

Amari Orchid Pattaya On the northern end of busy Pattaya, just out of the fray but close enough to walk there, the Amari provides comforts typical of its many properties throughout Thailand. Rooms are clean, with all the right amenities and the staff is helpful: a great choice for the family (but not particularly luxurious). The open-air lobby is inviting and guest rooms are large, trimmed in dark wood with parquet floors with pleasing, contemporary lines. There’s a playground and lots of space in the grassy central area. They have good in-house dining (see Henry J. Bean’s in “Where to Dine,” below), and can help arrange any eventuality during your stay. Amari Orchid Pattaya

Dusit Resort This sprawling, landscaped resort straddles the bluff on the north end of the main beach and is choc-full of fine amenities: watersports, two fine pools, access to two small but well-kept sandy beach coves, several dining outlets, and a small shopping arcade. Most of the balconied rooms overlook Pattaya Bay, but the garden view rooms are a great value. Tasteful, modern rooms are trimmed with stained wood and each has fine furnishing and all-marble bathrooms. While you may get an overall “chain hotel feel” here, the accommodations are very clean and comfortable, and there is a unique Zodiac theme throughout. Larger rooms and suites have outdoor showers on large balconies. Dusit Resort

Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya New and ultra-modern Hard Rock Hotel is a rollicking, good-time oasis in the heart of sordid Pattaya. This is one place in town you might feel okay bringing the kids, and they’re sure to have a ball in the fun sandy-edged pool, game area and Internet cafe. Rooms are compact and purposely sparse in immaculate whites set against bright blue or orange. Each room features larger than life murals of your favorite rock-and-roll idols, from Elvis to John Lennon. Media mavens will be pleased with the in-room CD players and in-house movies. Large family suites are a good option. The lobby and adjoining Hard Rock Cafe features the chain’s typical mini-museum of musical memorabilia; their Lil’ Rock Kid’s Club is one of the best going; the poolside spa is tops; and the pool area is compact but has lots of shady areas and massage salas, a kind of low, Thai-styl pavilion that is a better alternative than the beach. Don’t miss their big “foam parties” on weekends. Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya

Pattaya Marriott Resort & Spa Right in the center of Pattaya Beach and adjoining the Royal Garden Plaza shopping complex, you really can’t get a better location than the Marriott. In the hotels quiet courtyard garden and landscaped pool area you’d hardly know Pattaya City was just beyond the walls. Spacious balconied rooms have views of the gardens or the sea and are done in a tidy, upscale chain style with lots of nice little Thai touches. This resort makes for a great retreat full of all of the requisite creature comforts. The adjoining Royal Garden Plaza means access to fine dining, and entertainment and the hotel pool is the largest in Pattaya. Pattaya Marriott Resort

The Royal Cliff Beach Resort Comprised of the Royal Cliff Grand, The Royal Wing and Spa, and The Royal Cliff Resort (and Terrace), this large, luxurious compound provides a range of accommodation and is by far the best choice in Pattaya. Each property has its own charm. High-end Royal Cliff Grand and Royal Wing are the top choices and cater to the well-heeled businesstraveler. Everything is luxurious: from the columned public spaces, chandeliers and fountains to large and opulent guestrooms. The Grand’s spacious rooms are set in a contemporary, scallop-shaped tower and have deluxe appointments like marble bathrooms with separate shower stalls and twin sinks. Classic furniture and coffered ceilings are tribute to the era of King Rama V, who inspired the Victoriana/Siam design. The Royal Club on the sixth floor boasts a private spa with massage, Jacuzzi and sun deck. The Royal Cliff Beach Hotel, the most affordable of the Royal Cliff properties, is Pattaya’s top family resort. Rooms are spacious with bleached wood and pastel decor and large terraces, most with bay views. Two-bedroom suites are perfect for families. Even the more modest rooms in this cliff-top perch look out over the bay of Pattaya and the hotel amenities are without rival: a fine health-club, pool, spa and great dining as well as an enormous, luxurious convention center on grounds. The hotel has a staff of more than 1,500 waiting to serve. The Royal Cliff is far above the beach and far-removed from busy Pattaya: quiet, luxurious and welcoming. The Royal Cliff Beach Resort

MODERATE

Cabbages & Condoms A new, lush, comfortable resort built by Khun Meechai and the same folks who support sustainable rural development and health education throughout Thailand (see their restaurants in both Bangkok and Chiang Rai). Rooms are cozy here and the resort, just recently up and running, is a luxurious oasis in the far south of Pattaya. An atmospheric, affordable escape. Cabbages & Condoms

Siam Bayview Hotel Managed by the same people as the nearby Siam Bayview Resort (& 03842-8678), a comparable property, larger and more removed on the south end of Pattaya, the Siam Bayview is set in a spacious garden at the town center and features some basic beachfront activities. But Bayview is more city hotel than resort though and rooms are bland but comfortable and convenient to in-town activities. Some rooms have balconies, but cheaper rooms with city views are not special—go for the seaview rooms on upper floors. Their hotels have landscaped pools as well as tennis, good dining, and a helpful staff. Siam Bayview Hotel

INEXPENSIVE

Budget lodgings in Pattaya attract a rough clientele and can be pretty unpleasant, but you’ll find a range starting as low as 400B ($9.75). In the center of it all, and each with counters for registering lady-visitors, Flipper Lodge Hotel (tel 03842-6401) and nearby Sunshine Hotel (tel 03842-9247), both on Soi 8 not far from the beach, have clean and comfortable air-conditioned rooms starting at 800B ($20), accept credit cards and offer just the basic services (each has a small pool).

Where to dine

Busy Pattaya is chockabloc with small storefront bars and eateries. You’ll find the big fast-food chains well-represented (including two Starbuck’s along the beachfront road) and the Royal Garden Shopping Complex (south of town) as well as the large Big C Festival Center (on Pattaya 2 Rd., north end of town) support a number of very familiar restaurants.

MODERATE

Benihana JAPANESE/AMERICAN Most American readers are thinking, “Benihana? In Thailand?” Well, if you’ve had your fill of tom yam and pad thai, this place is a welcome respite. It’s got all the fun of any Benihana’s—teppanyaki grill displays performed by chefs who have as much humor as skill, and the food is just great. Come for a good time and a lot of laughs.

2nd Level, Royal Garden Plaza. Tel 03842-5029. Set menus 150B–500B ($3.65–$12). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.

Henry J. Bean’s TEX-MEX Part of the Amari resort complex, Henry J. Bean’s is a big, busy bar and restaurant at beachside (on the very north end of the beachside strip). There are live bands nightly and the food is a delicious mix of good Western fare, burgers, steaks and fries and good Tex-Mex of anything from flaming fajitas to tasty quesadillas. Good margaritas and a range of fine cocktails.

Pattaya Beach Road (north end) Tel 03842-8161. Main courses 190B–350B ($4.50–$8.50) AE, MC, V.11am–1am.

PIC Kitchen THAI Named for the Pattaya International Clinic PIC Hospital next door (don’t worry, they’re unrelated), PIC has a nice atmosphere of small Thai teak pavilions, both air-conditioned and open-air and both Thaistyle, floor-seating and romantic tables. Delicious and affordable Thai cuisine is served a la carte or in lunch and dinner sets. The spring rolls and deep fried crab claws are mouthwatering. Other dishes come panfried, steamed, or charcoal grilled, with spice added to taste. At night, groove to a live jazz band from 7pm to 1am. Soi 5 Pattaya 2nd Rd. Tel 03842-8374. 75B–320B ($1.80–$7.80). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 8am–midnight.

Shere “E” Punjab NORTHERN INDIAN An inviting little storefront right along the main beach road at town center, Shere “E” Punjab has candle-lit tables in air-conditioned comfort. They offer a range of northern Indian cuisine and tandoori grilled dishes. Everything is cooked to order with fresh ingredients and everything is authentic, a far better choice than the faux-Western eateries in town.

216 Soi 11 Beach Road. Tel 03842-0158. Main courses 120B–280B ($2.90–$6.80). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–

1am.

INEXPENSIVE

Vientiane LAOTIAN/THAI It’s Laotian, Vietnamese, Chinese, and Isan (northeastern Thai) specialties here, a great place for a cover-the-table meal for very little. Ordering Lao and Isan specials like sticky-rice and Laap (a spicy mince) puts you in the good graces of the wait staff (all from Isan). The restaurant is located on a noisy street though. Choose the air-conditioned dining room.

485/18 Pattaya Second Rd. (on east side of 2nd Rd., between Soi 14 and Soi Post Office). tel 03841-1298.

Main courses 60B–200B ($1.40–$4.90). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight.

Outdoor Activities IN Pattaya

GOLF

The hills around Pattaya are known as the “Golf Paradise of the East” with many international-class courses in a short 40km (25-mile) radius of the city.

• Bangphra International Golf Club, 45 Moo 6, Tambon Bang Phra, Sri Racha, (tel 03834-1149), is the finest course in Pattaya, although it’s a long drive (greens fees: weekdays 840B/$19; weekends 1,500B/$34).

• Laem Chabang International Country Club, 106/8 Moo 4 Tambon Bung, Sri Ratcha, (& 03837-2273), is a nine-hole course designed by Jack Nicklaus with very dramatic scenery (greens fees: weekdays 1,500B/$34); weekends 2,500B/$57).

• Siam Country Club, 50 Tambol Poeng, Banglamung, (tel 03824-9381; fax 03824-9387), is a short hop from Pattaya and believed to be one of the country’s most challenging courses (greens fees: all days 1,100B/$25).

Watersports

Efforts at clean-up are ongoing, but the bay in Pattaya is still quite polluted. Sad that development ruined the one thing that drew travelers here in the first place. Beach sand is coarse and swimming, if you dare, is best either at the very north of Pattaya Beach or a 15-minute drive south, over the mountain, to Jomtien Beach. The bay is full of boats ready to take you to outlying islands like Koh Khrok, Koh Lan and Koh Sok for a day of private beach lounging or snorkeling starting at 500B ($12) per head on a full boat (more for a private charter). To far flung Bamboo Island or Koh Man Wichai will cost you a bit more, some 2,000B ($49). Paragliding around the bay behind a motorboat is a popular beachfront activity and a 5 minute flight costs from 250B ($5.70). Jomtien beach hosts windsurfing and sea-kayaking; boards and boats are rented along the beach for from 200B ($4.90) per hour. Scuba diving is popular and there are a few dive-sites near the islands just offshore in Pattaya Bay as well as Koh Si Chang to the north, once famous as the summer playground of foreign ambassadors to Siam during the 19th century and Sattahip to the south with diving to a depth of 40m (131ft.). There are a number of good dive shops with PADI and NAUI certified instructors in the area. Adventure Divers, 219/56 Soi Yamato (tel  03871-0899), is one of many PADI-certified companies offering daily trips and courses for all levels. Contact Deutsches Haus (tel 03842-8725) for info about game fishing.

Pattaya Beach Overview

In terms of activity, the northern end is typically more sedate, while the central and southern parts are a little funkier and livelier, day or night. The southern part the hub of Pattaya’s nightlife is the densely packed epicentre of all things brash, noisy and risqu. Beach Road is lined with sand and sea to one side, and bars, restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops to the other. Inland, parallel Second Road is full of noodle bars, crowded beer bars, souvenir shops, hotels and guest houses.
Over the past few years this area has undergone a major clean-up, with the water here now the clearest it’s been in years. From here boats take visitors to offshore islands or on fishing or diving excursions, and a host of watersports are offered. The beautification process has been just as zealous onshore. While still the stage for a lot of wild nightlife, improving infrastructure, great transport facilities and a crackdown on crime have done wonders for the citys atmosphere.
In terms of activity, the northern end is typically more sedate, while the central and southern parts are a little funkier and livelier, day or night. The southern part the hub of Pattaya’s nightlife is the densely packed epicentre of all things brash, noisy and risqu. Beach Road is lined with sand and sea to one side, and bars, restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops to the other. Inland, parallel Second Road is full of noodle bars, crowded beer bars, souvenir shops, hotels and guest houses.
Over the past few years this area has undergone a major clean-up, with the water here now the clearest it’s been in years. From here boats take visitors to offshore islands or on fishing or diving excursions, and a host of watersports are offered. The beautification process has been just as zealous onshore. While still the stage for a lot of wild nightlife, improving infrastructure, great transport facilities and a crackdown on crime have done wonders for the citys atmosphere.
One of the best ways to enjoy Pattaya is to get comfortable in a beach chair under the shade of an umbrella (all for hire), and wait for the food vendors to come around with freshly steamed shrimp or crispy, deep-fried crabs. Even better, spoil yourself with a traditional Thai massage right there on the beach. But then, the beauty of Pattaya is that it can be whatever you want it to be. Yes, life is sweet..

PATTAYA AFTER DARK

Pattaya is all flashing neon and blaring music down even the smallest soi, an assault on the senses. Places like the South Pattaya pedestrian area, “Walking Street,” are lined with open-air watering holes with bar girls luring each passerby: The nightlife finds you in this town with an imploring, “You, mister, where you go?” Go-go bars are everywhere and red-light “Bar Beer” joints are springing up as fast as local officials can close them down. The city is a larger version of Bangkok’s Patpong complete with “Boyz Town,” a row of gay go-go clubs in south Pattaya. The same debauch that brings so many to Pattaya is pretty sad in the light of day though, when bleary-eyed revelers stumble around streets once glowing with neon, now bleak and strewn with garbage. Sex for money in Pattaya is a simple and direct business. Pattaya’s “physical” massage parlors are on Pattaya Second Road in northern Pattaya. Typically, dozens of girls wearing numbered buttons wait to be selected by clients, and then it’s off to private massage rooms and negotiations for services. All-night companionship is a matter of a small payment to a club owner (a bar fine) and simple negotiations. Most hotels have small security desks where girls must register with security guards before coming up to guest rooms (often for a fee). There’s also a very active Katoey (transvestite) scene. Stories of laced drinks and theft (or worse) abound and AIDS and other STDs are a concern as in all of Thailand